Hair oiling - benefits and history of an ancient ritual
Hair oiling is one of the oldest hair care habits in the world. It has recently become a popular trend, but it has actually been practiced for thousands of years. Hair oiling means massaging an oil into the scalp, and/or the hair lengths, and leaving it on for an hour or more so the oils can work their magic.
Here is where the practice comes from and how to make it work for your hair.
A short history of hair oiling
India. The best-known tradition comes from Ayurveda, where oiling the head and hair is part of regular self-care. In many Indian households, a weekly oil massage is a ritual passed from grandmothers and mothers to children. The word “shampoo” comes from Hindi champo, meaning to massage. Oils have long been applied in the belief that they bring shine and volume and keep hair healthy.
The Mediterranean. Olive oil has been part of daily life around this sea for thousands of years, in food and personal care. Ancient Greeks rubbed it on their bodies and hair for everyday care and good health. Today, olive-growing countries still use it in home beauty routines, and it is one of the most familiar hair oils in the region.
North Africa. In Morocco, argan oil is pressed from the kernels of a tree native to the country’s desert regions. It was traditionally used in cooking, skin care and hair care, and in recent decades it has become a staple ingredient in hair products worldwide.
Sub-Saharan Africa and wider. Across West and East Africa, shea butter and other plant oils and butters have long been used to moisturize and protect hair. These traditions travelled with the African diaspora and shaped hair care in the Caribbean and the Americas, where castor oil became closely associated with hair care. Chad’s Basara women are known for chebe, a mix of ground herbs and seeds applied to hair with oils or butters to keep it moisturized and reduce breakage.
Different continents, different plants, but the same idea to use oils that grow around you for hair care.
What do we know about the benefits?
Scientific research on hair oiling is still rather limited, so many of the benefits can’t be fully confirmed. Hair oils have been used all over the world for generations, but their exact effect on hair and scalp is still not well understood, and more studies are needed.
Much of what we know about hair oiling comes from tradition, passed down from generation to generation with years of regular use. That is worth taking seriously, but it also means the best test is your own. Observe how your hair feels and looks over time, and decide for yourself whether this ritual is working for you.
Plant oils act as emollients. They soften the hair, smooth the surface, and help it hold on to moisture. Also, part of the ritual’s value is in the scalp massage itself, which many people find relaxing and which may improve scalp circulation.
The effect of hair oiling is long-term. Applying an oil for two or three weeks and expecting a transformation will probably leave you disappointed. Hair grows slowly, so changes in quality and condition take time to show. Regular use over several months is a fairer test.
Choose the right oil for your hair. Dry, coarse, or curly hair usually loves rich, more heavy oils. Fine hair is different, because heavy oils can weigh it down and make it look dull.
Soypa nourishing hair oil
When I developed this oil, I looked at how people oil their hair around the world and made a deliberate choice to use lightweight oils. I wanted an oil that nourishes and adds shine without adding weight, and that suits all hair types.
Here is what is in the bottle:
Rosemary leaf extract. A traditional scalp-care herb, known for its antioxidant and soothing properties and widely used in scalp care today. Small studies on rosemary and hair improvements are encouraging, but the research is still limited. Antioxidant.
Apricot kernel oil. It is a light oil that absorbs easily and softens hair without leaving a heavy film, so it is the backbone of the formula’s lightweight feel.
Jojoba oil. Technically liquid wax rather than a true oil, jojoba is very light and has a structure similar to the skin’s own sebum. It softens the hair and adds shine without a greasy residue.
Argan oil. Traditional in Moroccan hair and skin care. Research describes it as moisturizing, with a good ability to hold water, and in one study it improved hair elasticity after two months of regular use. The result is hair that feels softer and looks shinier.
Olive oil. A Mediterranean classic that coats the hair, helps seal the cuticle and traps moisture inside. It is richer than the oils above, so it is balanced by the lighter ones.
Castor oil. The thick, traditional one, known for its moisturizing effect on dry, brittle-feeling hair. It is a supporting ingredient, so it adds care without heaviness.
Sunflower oil. A light oil rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids. It softens the hair and keeps the blend easy to spread.
Calendula extract. Traditionally used to soothe the skin, so it is a gentle addition for the scalp.
Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5). A common conditioning ingredient that holds moisture and leaves hair softer and easier to manage.
Lavender, sweet orange and ylang-ylang. These natural oils give the blend its soft fragrance. A few of their components (linalool, limonene and geraniol) are known allergens, so do a small patch test first if your skin is sensitive.
The formula is silicone-free, so there is no coating that builds up over time. The oil comes in a 100 ml amber glass bottle with a pipette, which protects the oils from light and makes it easy to use.
How to oil your hair
1. Comb gently to remove tangles.
2. Use a small amount. A few drops go a long way, and more makes washing harder.
3. Massage into the scalp with your fingertips for a few minutes, then smooth the rest through the lengths. You can use a wide comb too.
4. Leave it on for a few hours.
5. Wash thoroughly, shampooing twice if needed.
6. Repeat about once a week and keep it up. The benefit comes from regularity, over months.
Hair oiling isn’t a quick fix, and not every claim about it is proven. It is a long-standing ritual that for many people make their hair feel softer and look healthier, and provide a regular moment of care. Remember to stay consistent and give hair oiling a few months before judging the result.